When chef Joel Nickson and wife Julie first opened the doors at Wishbone in 1990, they entered into the Chicago restaurant scene with a clear mission: serve up comforting Southern cooking favorites in a remarkably down-to-earth atmosphere.
With menu favorites stretching from cheesy grits and red beans and rice, to chicken and waffles omelets and Cajun shrimp, Wishbone became a local favorite, drawing in seemingly everyone from neighborhood regulars and suburban day trippers to local politicians and celebrities.
Now, after nearly four decades of dishing out their famously savory, down-home dishes, the longtime Oak Park couple is officially winding down operations and closing their West Loop eatery, now located at 161 No. Jefferson St.
On Aug. 3, the Nicksons announced Wishbone’s closing on social media and the restaurant’s website, garnering reactions from thousands of fans ranging from shock and sadness to an outpouring of messages expressing gratitude for meaningful memories and a unique sense of camaraderie between patrons and staff.
“There was not one specific thing that happened — it was really the accumulation of all the pressures that come with running the restaurant,” Joel Nickson said of the decision. “After 36 years, we are ready for a change. It was an extremely hard decision, but we also knew we did not want to wait until we had no choice at all.”
Due to a massive rush of customers following the announcement, Wishbone has officially ceased all carryout and delivery orders, reservations and new catering orders. Before closing for good, the Nicksons are focusing entirely on attending to guests coming in to enjoy one final meal.
While the Nicksons don’t have an exact closing date for Wishbone, their goal is to remain open through the end of August — both to say goodbye to their loyal customers and ensure all of their employees land on their feet with new opportunities.
Wishbone first opened in 1990 at 1800 W. Grand Ave. with 23 seats, nine stools and six paintings done by Joel Nickson’s mother, Lia. In 1992, Wishbone moved to 1001 W. Washington with an expanded 170 seating capacity — relocating to the West Loop as one of the area’s early participants in the emergence of the neighborhood from blighted commercial area to one of Chicago’s hottest culinary spots. In 2018, Wishbone relocated the restaurant to its current location.
In addition, the restaurant also established Wishbone North in Roscoe Village. Run by Joel Nickson’s brother, Guy, the location closed its doors in 2019 after 20 years in business. And hyperlocally, the Nicksons operated Wishbone in Berwyn at 6611 W. Roosevelt Road (adjacent to historic FitzGerald’s), which closed in 2011 after a five-year run.
When asked about the decision to shut down Wishbone entirely as opposed to selling the business, the Nicksons say they never actively pursued a sale of their business. Instead, their intention was to bring this chapter of the restaurant to a close in a thoughtful way.
“As for the possibility of family taking it over, our children, Clay and Delia, are very happy in their own successful careers — which are not in hospitality,” Julie Nickson said. “However, our oldest son Tyler is and has built an extraordinary career as a chef. He served as Jimmy Buffett’s private chef through the final years of his life and now travels internationally cooking for private clients. We are enormously proud of what he has accomplished, and we would never expect him to step away from that career to solve the challenges we are facing now.”
The Nicksons say that because Tyler has a deep connection to Wishbone, it is possible someday he may decide to bring the restaurant back in a new form and on his own terms.
“That would be his vision, not an obligation,” they said.
Looking back, the Nicksons agree the most enjoyable part of owning and operating Wishbone has been the relationships they’ve developed with their customers over all these years.
“I have met every kind of person at Wishbone,” Joel Nickson said. “To run a restaurant for this long, you really do have to enjoy being around all different kinds of people. I also liked that every day was different. It was never boring. There is also something satisfying about being responsible for your own decisions. When you make a mistake, at least it is your mistake.”
Julie Nickson added that while she will miss spending time with Wishbone’s customers, she is relieved to be moving on from the challenges of business operations.
“Of course, it was a lot more enjoyable when things were easier, and everything was working the way it should,” she said. “When the rough times begin to outnumber the good ones, it becomes a lot less fun — and that was part of realizing it was time.”
Though the Nicksons are saying goodbye to Wishbone and the West Loop, they aren’t going too far as they plan to stay put in Oak Park.
“We love Oak Park and have no plans to leave,” Joel Nickson said. “It is home. It is the longest either of us has ever lived anywhere, and it is where we raised our three children. Neither of us is retiring, but we honestly don’t know what comes next, which is exciting.”