Spring — what little there has been this year — is here, and I cannot let it pass without my annual acknowledgment to former President Jimmy Carter for telling us all about those super-sweet onions that come from Vidalia, Ga. Thanks to his presidency, these exceptional onions are now available throughout the land, and so, once again, on behalf of food connoisseurs everywhere, we thank you, President Carter.

Spring is also the time for planting, and if an herb garden is in your plan, there’s one herb in particular that I hope you will include. It is my favorite herb of all, and truly, if I had to choose only one herb to use in my cooking, flat or curly, it would have to be that hardy biennial plant we all know as parsley.

Parsley has gotten a bit too much bad press in recent years, due in part because so many of our “cutting edge” chefs on the current stage consider it too “pedestrian” and even “old-fashioned” for modern tastes. Hogwash! And most folks think parsley is only used as a garnish. Absolute nonsense!

You might be surprised to know that parsley is probably the most popular herb in the world, used in kitchens everywhere, both as a flavoring ingredient as well as a garnish. It’s a must ingredient in my tomato sauces, and a little chopped parsley added to a cup of chicken soup or beef broth does wonders to brighten the flavor. The taste and aroma of parsley is both light and refreshing. And it’s a super-great breath freshener.

Interestingly, the Greeks, whose culture had such a strong influence on Rome, were superstitious about parsley and did not use it in cooking. According to legend, parsley sprang up where the blood of the Greek hero, Archemorus, was spilled when he was eaten by serpents. Parsley was thus revered as a symbol of death and used as a funeral herb to decorate their tombs, perhaps to counter any strong and unpleasant odors.

The Romans loved parsley, and apparently were the first to use it as a food. They are said to have used it at orgies to cover up the smell of alcohol on the breath, while also aiding digestion.

I like parsley as a food, and I’m especially fond of this recipe from Jacques Pepin for a delicious salad where the parsley itself takes center stage.

Parsley Salad

Serves 4

4 cups loosely packed, fresh, flat-leaf parsley leaves, washed and dried

1 (2ounce) can flat anchovy filets in oil

1 cup peeled, grated carrots (about 1 carrot)

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 each elephant clove garlic, cut into thin flakes with a vegetable peeler

2 each hard boiled eggs, chopped

1 large slice good quality country white bread, toasted in the oven

¼ cup raw pumpkin seeds, toasted on a cookie sheet in a 400%u02DA F oven for 6-8 minutes (optional)

  • Place the parsley leaves in a medium salad bowl
  • Cut the anchovy filets in ½ inch pieces and add to the bowl
  • Add the shredded carrots, salt & pepper, ¼ cup olive oil
  • Add the oil from the can of anchovies
  • Add the flakes of elephant garlic
  • Mix with all ingredients in the salad bowl

To serve:

  • Cut the toasted bread in 4 equal pieces and reassemble in the center of a large plate
  • Spoon the toasted pumpkin seeds over the salad and garnish with the chopped hard-boiled eggs.

Note: Make the salad a couple of hours ahead of time to soften the parsley. Wait just until serving to spoon it over the toasted bread

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Frank Chlumsky, former executive chef of Philander's restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts. In his 37-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan...