Holiday fever is in the air and I am full of joy! Images from A Christmas Carol, that timeless Victorian classic by Charles Dickens and the happy scene at the end of the story where the Cratchit family gathers around the dinner table, fill me with inspiration as I dream about the wonderful roast goose that Mrs. Cratchit proudly serves to her eager guests.
Most Americans are familiar with this enduring classic, yet many of us have never even tasted roast goose, let alone tried to cook one. Geese are fatty birds, like ducks, with all dark meat, and a slightly pronounced, yet not unpleasant, gamey taste. Properly cooked, the texture of goose will be firmer and slightly chewier than turkey, with the added bonus of a skin that crisps up like a cracker.
Geese are raised to go to market from 4-6 months, with a weight range of 6-14 pounds. “Goose,” incidentally, refers to the female of the species, while the male is called a “gander.” Young, small geese are called “goslings,” and that is what you should buy (older and larger geese will be much too tough). They are available year-round, but most likely you will find them in the frozen section at the supermarket. Fresh geese can be ordered in advance from specialty markets, usually from May to December.
Since geese are such fatty birds, roasting is the best method for cooking, and make sure to save all that fat. Goose fat is prized by cooks and connoisseurs everywhere, and it’s great for frying potatoes. Dressing for goose, like duck, is often based on fruit, such as apples or prunes, which help to offset the fat, but it’s not uncommon to stuff a goose with potatoes and onions, which soak up lots of flavor. Here’s how to do it.