Trust me, it’s not too early! The holidays are upon us and it’s time for all serious cooks to get serious. Professionally speaking, it’s time to “make the mise en place!”
Mise en place (MEEZ ahn plahs), as all good cooks know, is a French phrase meaning “everything in its place,” and I don’t exaggerate when I say it is the single most important concept that a cook must recognize-and understand-to really appreciate the act of cooking. Thoroughly reviewing recipes, gathering all ingredients, and choosing and checking equipment are all part of a process that allows for better, stress-free and fun cookery. So with mise en place in mind as we head toward the inevitable holiday rush, you might consider this recipe for a popular Scandinavian specialty called “gravlax” that you can serve with pride during this festive holiday season.
Gravlax is really nothing more than raw salmon, cured in salt and sugar, flavored with dill, with or without liquor and other spices. Easy to prepare, gravlax has a distinctive fresh flavor and velvety texture, providing a pleasing alternative to the various types of smoked salmon that are available at a much higher cost. Do it as a weekend project, starting on Friday and with little effort you can have it ready to go for Sunday brunch. Kept in the refrigerator, gravlax will keep for at least a week.
Gravlax
Serves 10
½ cup kosher salt
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoonblack peppercorns (coarsely cracked)
2 one-pound center cut salmon filets, skin on, pin bones removed
1 bunchfresh dill, rough chopped
1 tablespoon crushed juniper berries, coriander or caraway seed (optional)
¼ cup vodka or aquavit (optional)
Combine the salt, sugar, black peppercorns and optional spices in a mixing bowl
Place the salmon filets in a glass or ceramic dish, or other non-reactive pan such as stainless steel
Rub the spice mixture all over the flesh side of the salmon filets
Spread all of the chopped dill on the filets
Sprinkle the (optional) liquor over the filets
Quickly turn over one of the filets and place it (flesh side to flesh side) on top of the other filet
Cover the filets with plastic wrap
Place another pan on top of the filets and weigh down with a heavy object, such as a brick or a large can of tomato juice
Place the pan in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours, but no more than 48 hours
Unwrap the filets and pour off the accumulated juices
Remove the dill and tenderly wipe the surface of the filets
Using a very sharp fileting knife, cut thin diagonal slices of the gravlax down to the skin
Serve thin slices of the gravlax as an open-face sandwich or as canapés on dark bread
Garnish with sour cream or cream cheese, capers, sliced onions, and/or hard-boiled eggs.
Note: The longer the filets stay in the cure, the saltier they become-24 hours should be just about right.
Although I list a number of options regarding the seasoning of gravlax, the traditional method uses only salt, sugar and dill, which, with a nod to the peppercorns, I much prefer. Addition of the other spices, while interesting, conceals the true flavor of this wonderful dish.
Make the mise en place!