Spring is here, and I well remember from my early days as a fledgling cook at the legendary Maxim’s, the astounding, most beautiful colossal asparagus that I had ever seen. Indeed, cook, waiter, and customer alike were all in accord and seemed to be in virtual awe of this esteemed apple-green stalk, regarding it with adulation and near reverence in a clear indication of its exalted status as the great harbinger of spring.

Asparagus is without doubt the quintessential spring vegetable, presently abundant at produce markets everywhere and the perfect vegetable to serve at your Easter celebration or Passover Seder. And lest I forget to mention it, when properly prepared, it’s absolutely delicious. Incidentally, asparagus is one of the few foods considered acceptable to eat with your hands in polite society.

Unlike most vegetables, where we look for the smaller and thinner to be more tender, thick asparagus stalks actually have more tender volume in proportion to its skin. So look for the biggest asparagus spears you can find, and then peel them before they’re cooked. If you’ve never had peeled asparagus you won’t believe the difference. Here’s how to do asparagus?#34;properly.

Peeling asparagus

Using a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler, start about 2 or 3 inches from the top and peel down and around each spear to the root end. Asparagus is tough and woody toward the root end, so simply pick up each spear near the bottom and snap it with both hands. The tough part will break off easily. Discard the ends and peelings, or save them to make a perfectly delicious asparagus soup.

Boiling asparagus

Lay the peeled asparagus flat in a skillet, in several layers if necessary.

Barely cover with boiling salted water and place a cloth napkin or kitchen towel on top of the asparagus. This will help to keep the asparagus submerged and quicken the cooking time.

Cook at high heat for 6-8 minutes or until it is just tender.

To determine if the asparagus is cooked, remove one spear with a pair of tongs and shake it lightly. If the head bobs, consider the asparagus done. If you’re still not sure, cut a piece off the stem and taste it. There should be a slight crunch without any raw taste.

Asparagus is at its best when it’s simply boiled or steamed and served hot with hollandaise sauce, or drizzled with melted butter or olive oil, perhaps with a sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese. And it’s good cold with simple vinaigrette. I also like it stir-fried with a touch of sesame oil, in which case I don’t bother to peel it.

Stir?#34;Fried Asparagus
1 pound asparagus, woody end removed and cut on the diagonal into 1/8 inch slices
3 tablespoons peanut oil
teaspoon salt
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons sesame oil

Heat a wok or large skillet on high heat for 30 seconds

Add the peanut oil and let it get hot

Add the asparagus, salt & pepper, and soy sauce

Cook the asparagus, tossing it like a salad with 2 large spoons for 1 to 2 minutes until the asparagus is heated through and tender

Add the sesame oil, give the asparagus a couple of tosses, and transfer to a plate

Serve immediately

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Frank Chlumsky, former executive chef of Philander's restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts. In his 37-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan...