Although Easter occurred unusually early this year, even more unusual is the fascinating-and fun-debate that has been taking place in Wednesday Journal the past few weeks about egg salad, that ever-so-classic leftover treat that people either love or hate.
Triggered by Chicago Tribune Phil Vettel’s March 20 column, “O, for a perfect egg salad sandwich,” readers have been weighing in with suggestions galore that run the gamut on this simple sandwich, recommending their favorite restaurants and recipes, and perfectly illustrating the truth behind that culinary saying that makes me appear so scholarly when I pontificate, in Latin, “De gustabus non est disputandum,” which just means “there is no accounting for taste.”
What I find most pleasing about this debate, however, are the rave reviews-no surprise, given to the egg salad at George’s Restaurant, located at 145 S. Oak Park Ave., which has been serving up dependable, consistently good food ever since owner George Konstantos opened his doors back in 1984. George’s version is simplicity itself and falls right in line with my own philosophy of food. Rather than see what you can add to a recipe, see what you can leave out.
And that’s just what Konstantos has done with his popular egg salad. The only ingredients are chopped hard boiled eggs and mayonnaise, and a pinch of salt. It’s absolutely delicious. George’s only secret lies in the fact that each and every egg salad sandwich is made to order, including the egg salad itself. No onions, no celery or green peppers, and certainly no pickle relish. Other versions might call for Dijon mustard and some even add anchovy paste. No wonder it’s a love/hate item. Too many choices.
Sadly, in my own opinion, many of today’s cooks, driven by a misguided desire to be original, fail to understand that some dishes are actually better when left alone. Much of people’s frustration with today’s food stem’s in large part from this unfortunate emphasis on creativity rather than the chef’s ability to accept, execute, and offer food that is simple and unadulterated.
That said, I will not offer a recipe for egg salad here. Either you like it plain or you prefer one of the many, endless variations. De gustabus non est disputandum. I will share a secret, however, as it is the real trick when it comes to any dish calling for hard-boiled eggs. The secret is, don’t boil the eggs! Boiling toughens the whites. Here is the proper way to do it.
Hard-Non-Boiled Eggs
Use the freshest eggs possible
As with all egg cookery, have the eggs at room temperature
Place the eggs in a pan and generously cover them with cold water
Set the pan over medium heat and bring the water just up to the boil
Immediately lower the heat and allow the eggs to simmer (not boil) for six minutes
Using a slotted spoon transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice water
Let cool for 10 minutes
To shell the eggs:
Tap the eggs lightly with the back of a spoon or on top of your work surface.
Start at the round end where the air sack is located and peel the shells under a trickle of cold running water
Perfect every time!