Been doing much cooking lately? I sure haven’t. The recent wave of unbearable heat we’ve all had to endure this summer, not to mention the astronomical rise (and still rising) cost of food has all but kept me out of my beloved sanctuary, otherwise known as the kitchen.

Well, now the weather is cooling, and I’ve had my fill of salads and cold plates. Higher prices at the grocery store, however, are going to be with us for a while, so what else is there but to get creative, frugally speaking, and get back behind that stove.

As happens every year about this time, the welcome drop in temperature immediately has me thinking about those dishes that can transport me to the realm of contentment and well being. Recalling a memorable dinner I once had at the renowned Ashkenaz Restaurant and Deli on Chicago’s North Side reminded me of a dish that not only meets the demands of comfort food, but one that is also easy on the wallet.

Stuffed Cabbage Rolls with Sweet and Sour Raisin Sauce

Serves 6-8

Sauce:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup coarsely chopped onions
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup tomato paste
½ cup packed brown sugar
¾ cup water
1 can (28 ounces) whole peeled tomatoes in juice (pureed)
½ cup raisins
¼ cup lemon juice
¼ cup white vinegar
1 cinnamon stick (optional)

Stuffing:

2 pounds ground chuck
½ cup grated or finely chopped onion
1 cup cooked white rice
¾ cup breadcrumbs
2 whole eggs, beaten
¼ cup ketchup
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
1 each large head green cabbage, cored

Prepare the sauce:

  • Heat the oil in a large (6 quart) saucepan
  • Add the onions and salt and sauté over medium heat until soft and slightly golden
  • Stir in the tomato paste and cook for about 5 minutes
  • Add the brown sugar and mix well
  • Add the water and pureed tomatoes
  • Add the raisins, lemon juice, vinegar and optional cinnamon stick
  • Simmer gently for about 1 hour

Meanwhile:

  • Pre-heat the oven to 350° F.

Prep the cabbage:

  • Bring a large pan of water to boil and add 1 tablespoon salt
  • Add the head of cored cabbage and turn off the heat
  • Cover the pot and let the cabbage sit in the hot water for about 15 minutes

Prepare the filling:

  • Combine the ground chuck and grated onion in a mixing bowl
  • Add the cooked rice, breadcrumbs, eggs and ketchup
  • Add the salt, black pepper, and garlic powder and mix well

Meanwhile:

  • Remove the cabbage from the hot water
  • Carefully peel off the leaves, one by one. They should be soft and limp
  • Transfer the larger leaves (about 20) to a baking sheet and spread them out.
  • Place about 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center of each cabbage leaf
  • Fold the sides over the filling and roll them up
  • Place the cabbage rolls, seam side down, in a 9×13-inch baking dish
  • Add the raisin sauce to completely cover the cabbage rolls
  • Cover the baking dish with foil and bake at 350° F for 45 minutes to 1 hour

Note (this might seem like a lot of work, but it’s worth it):

  • If the cabbage leaves are still hard, place them back in the pot, bring the water up to a boil and cook until tender.
  • Measurements of acidic ingredients are only approximations.
  • Vinegar and lemon juice should be added in increments according to your own individual taste.
  • If it’s too sour, add some sugar. If it’s too sweet, add more vinegar.

The weather’s fine — head for the kitchen and enjoy this wonderful dish!

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Frank Chlumsky, former executive chef of Philander's restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts. In his 37-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan...