Editor’s note: In the spirit of education about the subject of a record-setting attempt in River Forest this weekend, we asked our food columnist to help us get a better understanding of this specialty cheese.

Deliciously spicy, but not piquant, with a palate-pleasing rich and full taste, Parmigiano-Reggiano [pahr-muh-ZHAH-noh reh-zhee-AH-no] to an Italian is considered the queen of cheeses. Parmesan cheese is best known, and traditionally used as a grating cheese, and I can hardly name a pasta dish that can be considered complete without a sprinkling of this hard, grainy, drum-shaped cheese. But all Parmesan cheeses are not equal, and are certainly not alike. Commercially made Parmesan cheeses made in America are aged for a much shorter time and pale in comparison to the famous and celebrated Parmigiano-Reggiano. My suggestion: If you want the best, seek an audience with the queen.

Only for grating? Hardly. Gourmets, whether in or out of Italy, consider Parmigiano-Reggiano to be a splendid table cheese, notable for its complex flavor and granular texture that literally melts in your mouth. Chef Peggy Ryan, undisputed gourmet and former owner of the celebrated Va Pensiero restaurant in Evanston is my colleague and chef of the fine dining room at the School of Culinary Arts at Kendall College. Known for her cutting edge approach to modern fine dining, Chef Ryan showcases the worth of this superb cheese in a number of innovative ways, two of which she generously shares for this modest column.

Parmesan broth? It’s easy, tasty and, once you make it, you’ll never again throw out those Parmesan rinds. Here’s the recipe. Enjoy. And hail to the queen!

Frank Chlumsky, former executive chef of Philander’s restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College’s School of Culinary Arts. In his 36-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan City, Ind., and in Lake Geneva, Wisc. He has also been executive chef at the Saddle & Cycle Club in Chicago. Frank lives in Forest Park, where he cooks for pleasure.

1 lb. Parmesan rinds

  • 6 c. cold water
  • ½ c. heavy cream
  • Tie up the rinds in a piece of cheesecloth.
  • Place the cheesecloth bag in a medium-sized saucepan and cover with the water.
  • Simmer, uncovered, for 1½ hours, stirring occasionally to prevent rinds from scorching.
  • Strain and add the cream.
  • Salt to taste.

Parmesan-Reggiano Flan

  • 1 c. heavy cream
  • ½ c. milk
  • 3 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, finely grated
  • 1 large whole egg
  • 2 large egg yolks
  • Salt
  • White pepper
  • Preheat the oven to 300°F. In a medium sauce pan, bring cream and milk up to a boil.
  • Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese Allow mixture to steep for 20 minutes, strain and discard remaining cheese solids
  • In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the egg and egg yolks. Whisk in the cream and cheese mixture. Season well with salt and white pepper
  • Lightly oil five 4-ounce ramekins (you can use soup cups). Divide the flan mixture evenly among the ramekins
  • Place the ramekins in a 4-inch deep baking pan. Place the baking pan in the lower third of the oven. Pour boiling water around the ramekins to come halfway up the baking dish
  • After 10 minutes, check the water in the baking pan. Don’t let it boil! It should be just below a simmer. Cover the pan with foil and bake until the flan is set. It is done when a toothpick inserted an inch from the edge of the ramekin comes out clean.
  • Carefully unmold the ramekins and place on a plate along with grilled pencil asparagus or another vegetable of your choice.
  • For a final touch, sprinkle with sautéed breadcrumbs and drizzle with browned butter. Serves five.

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Frank Chlumsky, former executive chef of Philander's restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts. In his 37-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan...