Two and a half years ago, Eric Larson became an entrepreneur-and a cheese and wine expert-when he opened Marion Street Cheese Market at 101 N. Marion St. Now he’s adding manager to his list of titles.

That’s because of the rapid expansion his 700-square-foot business will undergo in moving to its new 4,200-square-foot corner space at Marion Street and South Boulevard, in the newly built Opera Club building.

“We’re probably going to go from having two full-time and two part-time to having more than 20 employees over there,” Larson said. “It’s a little nerve-wracking, but it’s exciting, too.”

The new shop will be like a “true, old, corner European deli,” he said, adding organic, local produce, milk and yogurt to its offerings. “Our focus is going to be as much on local products as we can.”

At one end of the shop will be a cafe area, where small-plate dishes and glasses of wine will be served, pending approval of a liquor license. The combination of wine service at the cafe with to-go wine and beer sales would be unusual in Oak Park, but Larson said the Liquor Control Review Board has given him positive feedback so far.

Most of the selections on the menu will be tapas-style: appetizer-sized plates with a few simple ingredients. But the cafe will also offer two cheese-eating experiences created in Switzerland. Fondue, of course, is melted cheese dipped out of a heated pot. Raclette is similar, but it’s a new experience with a new kitchen gadget destined for wedding registries.

The raclette is a double-decker device with a heating element between a grill on top and cheese dishes below. Traditionally, a large wheel of cheese is brought near a fire until it bubbles, when it is scraped (raclette comes from the French racler, which means “to scrape”) onto potatoes or cured meats in a hungry person’s outstretched hands.

Using the device, the heating element broils the top of the cheese, which can be scraped out of little bowls.

“It’s a very memorable meal,” Larson said.

The cafe will also serve coffee, and Larson hopes it will be an upscale convenience store for people in the neighborhood, and people’s “third place” after their homes and workplaces. Couches and a fireplace will help create a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.

Larson worked in quality assurance before opening the shop and plans to implement similar procedures to ensure the level of customer service the shop gave at its small space will be replicated at the new space.

“In the past I’ve worn every hat,” he said, adding that he realizes he’ll do a lot more delegating at the new shop. For example, one of his employees, Lex Marshall, will become the big cheese in all things cheese in the new cheese shop. Larson’s looking for someone to oversee wine, too.

Architect Nevin Hedlund Architects, of River Forest, is designing the new space.

The six-fold expansion of the business is made possible by a new investor, Mary Jo Schuler.

“It’s allowed us the ability to grow, making a bold move like we’re making over there,” Larson said.

The company bought the entire first floor of the Opera Club building, and at what Larson admitted was a hefty price. But he said that it’s just another example of you get what you pay for.

“It means we have a higher hurdle to get over every month,” Larson said. “It just means we’re going to have to up our game.”

CONTACT: dcarter@wjinc.com

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