Why wait? Thanksgiving is upon us, and as it is with all holidays, my first thoughts turn to the traditional dishes that I have been cooking-and enjoying-for most of my life. But history has just been made in America, with the hopeful promise of a recipe for change at a time beset by uncertainty and an economic decline that could ultimately threaten our great nation’s security.
Maybe we could tweak this recipe a bit and add a measure of good luck into the mix. Maybe we should make some black-eyed peas.
Black-eyed peas-for all intents and purposes-are not traditional Thanksgiving fare. Thanksgiving traditionalists tend to look back to 1621 and the foods that were served at that first Thanksgiving celebration. Pilgrims and American Indians alike had gathered to celebrate the first harvest of native crops and, to the best of my knowledge, black-eyed peas were not part of that harvest.
But they were certainly part of the harvest in Africa, where black-eyed peas have been cultivated for more than 2,000 years. By way of the African slave trade, black-eyed peas (sometimes called cowpeas) eventually found their way to the southern United States where they have become a staple of Southern cooking.
Traditionally, black-eyed peas are eaten on New Year’s Day in a dish called Hoppin’ John, which is supposed to bring good luck. Traditionalist-and optimist-that I am, I make Hopping John every New Year’s Day.
Given the tenor of our present time, and with a perfectly good holiday right before us, I can only ask: Why wait?
Here are a couple of recipes for Hoppin’ John. If you have never made it before, you may want to try the second recipe, which allows you to cheat a bit by cooking the rice separately.
Note: Most recipes for dried beans call for overnight soaking of the beans, but this step is totally unnecessary. Just make sure that you keep the beans covered with hot water throughout the cooking time.
The ham hock can be replaced either by smoked bacon or salt pork.
The red pepper flakes are optional. You can use fresh hot chili peppers, Tabasco or other hot sauce, or none, according to your taste.
Some cooks like to add a tablespoon or two of diced red or green sweet bell pepper.
Frank Chlumsky, former executive chef of Philander’s restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College’s School of Culinary Arts. In his 35-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan City, Ind., and in Lake Geneva, Wisc. He has also been executive chef at the Saddle & Cycle Club in Chicago. Frank lives in Forest Park, where he cooks for pleasure.
Black-Eyed Peas with Bacon
Serves 4-6
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2 c. dried black-eyed peas
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2 c. cooked white rice
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2 oz. bacon or salt pork – cut crosswise into ¼ inch strips (matchsticks)
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1 small fresh red chili pepper, finely chopped
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2 T. cider vinegar
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Salt and pepper to taste
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2 T. chopped parsley
Place the peas in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover by 3 inches.
Bring to a boil and let boil for 5 minutes.
Lower the heat and simmer 45 minutes to an hour, or until tender.
Fry the bacon or salt pork matchsticks in a skillet until lightly browned.
Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.
In the same skillet, sauté the onions in the bacon fat until golden brown.
Add the fresh chili pepper to the pan and cook for 1 minute more.
Drain the tender black-eyed peas, reserving ½ cup of the cooking liquid.
Add the peas to the bacon-onion mixture.
Add the rice and vinegar.
Gently mix all of the ingredients, being careful not to mash the peas.
Add salt and pepper to your taste.
Pour the mixture into a buttered casserole dish and spoon on the reserved cooking liquid.
Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for about 20 minutes.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.