In a normal year at this time, I’d probably be writing about the bounty of summer, the allure of freshly picked sweet corn, or the taste of homegrown tomatoes. I might even write about peaches, if I could. But I won’t.
The peaches aren’t very sweet this year and, on that topic, I’m afraid I’ve soured. Aberrant weather, I suspect, is the cause, so please allow for a slight aberration as I stray from the season and attempt to entice you with a sumptuous soup you can make from the sorely overlooked ¡ª and far too neglected ¡ª member of the cabbage family known as kale.
Kale is a bona fide superfood, high in vitamins A and C, folic acid, calcium, iron and potassium. It contains seven times the amount of beta carotene found in cabbage, and its sulphur-containing phytochemicals help prevent cancer and are beneficial to your arteries. That kale has taken so long to gain in popularity in North America is puzzling, to say the least. It’s been around and enjoyed by Europeans for at least 2,000 years. Kale is pleasantly mild, if somewhat “cabbagy” in flavor, so be sure to choose smaller bunches and avoid any with limp or yellowed leaves. Stored in the refrigerator, kale will keep well for three or four days, but if kept too long it will develop a much stronger, bitter taste.
Kale is found in almost all cuisines throughout the world, but in my opinion the pinnacle of its success is as the main ingredient in caldo verde, the vastly popular national soup of Portugal. Just add a few simple ingredients to produce a rewarding, comforting soup that will have your guests smacking their lips in satisfaction. Here’s how to do it.
Frank Chlumsky, the first executive chef at Philander’s restaurant in Oak Park, teaches in Chicago at Kendall College’s School of Culinary Arts. In his 35-year career, Frank has owned restaurants in Michigan City, Ind., and in Lake Geneva, Wisc. He’s also been executive chef at the Saddle & Cycle Club in Chicago. Frank lives in Forest Park, where he cooks for pleasure.
4 T. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
3 cloves garlic, minced fine
1 large Spanish onion, chopped
6 ounces linguiça* or chorizo sausage,
sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 quarts water, chicken or pork stock
1 pound potatoes (red,white or Yukon gold),
peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
Salt and pepper
1 pound kale (stems discarded), washed and leaves finely shredded
Heat the olive oil in a large 4-quart soup pot.
Add the garlic, onion and half the sausage and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens ¡ª about 8 minutes.
Add the water, potatoes and a large pinch each of salt and pepper and bring to a boil.
Simmer over low heat until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
Using an immersion blender, food processor or food mill, process the soup to a coarse pur¨¦e.
Bring the soup to a boil.
Add the kale and simmer until it’s wilted, about 3 minutes.
Stir in the remaining half of the chorizo and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve in bowls, drizzled with olive oil.
As they say in Portugal: Aproveite! (Enjoy!)
*Linguiça [lihng-GWEE-suh] is a garlicky Portuguese sausage made from pork. It’s difficult to find in Chicago. Chorizo is an acceptable substitute. Linguiça is available in Chicago at Pepe’s, a tiny grocery store that specializes in Brazilian and Portugese foods. Pepe’s is half a block south of Fullerton at 2335 N. Western. Chorizo is available almost everywhere.