Brian's September Wrap, courtesy David Hammond

In a recent post, I tried to make you feel bad about not having the terrific and bacon-y Jason Hammel Wrap of the Month at Falafill.

That was in August.

This month, the sandwich is courtesy of Chef Brian Green of recently-opened The Savoy, and formerly of the much-claimed Purple Pig on Michigan, perhaps one of the boldest Michigan Avenue food ventures in recent memory (opening a place that offers pig ear, intestine, jowls, sweetbreads and other parts to ladies-with-big-shopping bags was an adventurous bet that has paid off with many laudatory critical reviews).

Green’s wrap is a traditional falafel with smoked salmon and eggplant, pickled fennel, tomato-cucumber salad and harissa.

This monthly sandwich was perhaps the most complex falafel wrap I’ve had, though the fish seemed a little odd in this combination, adding a flavor I’m unaccustomed to in falafel and, with the eggplant, a certain mushiness that also seems at odds with the crunchy chickpea balls. Still, as with his work at Purple Pig, I appreciate Green’s effort and would rather eat the food of a chef who takes chances than one who churns out chow according to some familiar routine.

I’ve discovered that the way to dine at Falafill is to order the monthly sandwich and a “side of mezze,” which gets you a small plastic container that you can use to load up on salad bar offerings. Indeed,  though I’ve had excellent falafel at Falafill, the salad bar is another major reason to eat there: the options are abundant, there are many gluten-free items, and the staff always keeps it fresh. Warning: you probably don’t want to eat here, or at any other quick service restaurant, if you have a problem with sodium: this is some salty stuff.

Ultimately, although the September Wrap is worth a taste, it really can’t compare with the August Wrap – so you’re just going to have to keep feeling sorry if you missed that one.

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David Hammond, a corporate communications consultant and food journalist living in Oak Park, Illinois, is a founder and moderator of LTHForum.com, the 8,500 member Chicago-based culinary chat site. David...

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