You might have seen Jeff Mauro of Elmwood Park hosting his Food Network show “Sandwich King,” or you might see him working out now and again at FFC, the Oak Park health club on Lake Street. When I ran into him recently, we set up an interview so that I could get the low-down on his philosophy of the sandwich and, more importantly, his new sandwich shop, Pork & Mindy’s, 1623 N. Milwaukee in Chicago.
In your memory, is there a best sandwich, a sandwich that opened your eyes to the possibilities of how excellent a sandwich could be?
The pastrami on rye at Langer’s in LA. Perfect meat, perfect bread. Simplicity and technique personified in the most sensuous of all meats…
Although Food Network icon Guy Fieri takes huge amounts of sh*t from Bourdain and others, I believe — and on this blog I’ve written about how — Fieri has done some good. On balance, what do you feel has been Fieri’s contribution (if any) to food culture in the United States?
Guy Fieri has done more for the mom and pop shops than any other food television personality. Say what you want about his locked-in style, Camaros or exclamations, Guy has been a champion for normal-people food for quite some time. Whether you’re high-brow like Bourdain or mid-brow like myself, nobody on food TV is splitting the atom or curing polio, so we have to stop taking all this so seriously. We showcase food, the people that make it and where they make it. Whether it’s a totally radical sloppy joe or the most authentic Hainanese rice in Singapore, it’s fun to watch people eat and talk about food. This is why I have a job, Guy has a job and Bourdain has a job. I’m just happy to have a job. Can’t we all just get along and eat?
Let’s talk about your new place, Pork & Mindy’s. How did you select the sandwiches to serve? Are they the result of sandwiches you’ve encountered doing your television work, or did you develop them specifically for the restaurant?
I wanted 7 distinct sandwiches that can each stand on their own. Some were sandwiches I’ve always envisioned on my menu (Chuck, Bao, and Chicken Salad Roll); some are products of trial and error, which leads to new discoveries. Ultimately, I wanted something for everyone while still offering never-before-seen creations that are constantly crave-able.
Looking over your site, I was interested in the community focus you’ve adopted at Pork & Mindy’s. Could you tell us a little about how you hope the restaurant works with their communities?
We have already attached ourselves to several local schools and charity programs to help not only feed the local neighborhood, but also enrich it in any way we can. Music and Art are the first programs cut in school, and our main focus are these two areas. Among our recent commitments, we held a very successful fundraising night for The Pritzker School down the block and have committed to feeding the masses at the Starving Artists Event for the Chicago Art Coalition.
When you’re in Oak Park, where do you like to go for a good sandwich? What places do you like?
Besides the Elwood Park places (Johnnies, Alpine, Burger Boss, and Nottoli), I am always very pleased with Maya Del Sol. Great beverage program and dynamic, seasonal menu. Best service in OP hands down. I also love La Parrallita in River Forest for their housemade salsas, tacos and horchata. Gaetano’s is always wonderful.
In Wednesday Journal, I’ve bemoaned the fact that at Erik’s, they serve a club sandwich without the extra slice of bread in the center and with just slices on top and bottom, like a regular sandwich. What is your opinion on that hugely important topic?
I believe that as a race, we humans have evolved past extra bread on a club sandwich.
So I guess I owe the folks at Erik’s an apology; they are clearly more evolved than me.
