It was Friday night. We didn’t feel like cooking, and it seemed too cold and forbidding to go out to eat. We decided to order in. Pizza was the choice.

Carolyn said she’d heard that the delivery pizza from Trattoria 225 was good, so we ordered one 3 Little Pigs (tomato sauce, house cheese, spicy fennel sausage, pepperoni, pancetta) and one 225 (tomato sauce, house cheese, mushroom, red onion roasted and red pepper; it was “flavored with parmigiano reggiano cheese,” and I’m not exactly sure what that means).

For Trattoria 225 pizza, the takeout/delivery menu is identical to the regular dinner menu in the restaurant.

The toppings, especially on the 225, were very good, balanced, pleasant, with sauce that was not (like so many Midwestern pizzas) too sweet. We liked them both.

Last month, I wrote about delivery pizza from Forno Rosso, and although we liked both pizzas, the delivery from Trattoria 225 confirmed my feeling that delivery pizza has a lot going against it. The delivery time turns the crust into a shadow of its just-out-of-the-oven self; the toppings, however, probably suffer very little if at all, contained, as they are, in a relatively thick paste of cheese and other ingredients.

Years ago, I did a random tasting of a number of Chicago deep dish-type Pizzas, including Uno’s, Girodano’s and Lou Malnati’s. Malnati’s seemed to be the group favorite, it definitely was mine, and I’m glad this pizza place is moving to Oak Park. I suspect, too, that this deep dish pizza, being mostly “thick paste of cheese” will do better in transit.

Incidentally, this conclusion that delivery pizza is always somewhat diminished was clearly recognized by those who formulated Italian regulations regarding VPN (Vera Pizza Napoletana). According to those rules, which were instituted, like the rules regarding Champagne and other protected names, to maintain standards over the centuries, a true Neapolitan pizza ceases to be such as soon as it leaves the premises: “The Pizza Napoletana should be consumed immediately, straight out of the oven, at the pizzeria. If the pizza were removed from the pizzeria to be eaten later, it would no longer carry the mark of a true “Pizza Napoletana.”

Delivery changes everything.

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David Hammond

David Hammond, a corporate communications consultant and food journalist living in Oak Park, Illinois, is a founder and moderator of, the 8,500 member Chicago-based culinary chat site. David...

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