Spaghetti Pie at Geppetto's

Disturbingly, disarmingly delicious

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By David Hammond

Some time ago, Wednesday Journal's Dan Haley told me I really should eat the spaghetti pie at Geppetto's. This week, with The Wife out of town, the time seemed right to sample this strange-sounding pasta dish, so I walked over to Geppetto's.

Let's get the negative out of the way right up front. What I encountered at Geppetto's was the oddest, most distant, passive aggressive, minimally interactive non-service I can remember receiving. Slow, inattentive, with the server clearly trying to avoid eye-contact, I was given dinner without being asking if I wanted a drink, had bread wordlessly plopped in front of me without butter or oil, and was generally "dealt with" without the hint of a smile. I honestly could not wait to leave.

But the spaghetti pie was disturbingly, disarmingly delicious.

In case you didn't know, spaghetti pie is not technically pie: it's more like lasagna made with thin spaghetti. There's soft Italian cheese mixed in, and a hint of herbs, and it's served in a wedge. There's no actual pie crust; though the menu says there's a "parmesan crust," that seems to refer to a thin sheet of baked cheese on top.

I had meat sauce on top, but you can also get it with marinara. Either way, the light acidity of the tomato plays off the richness of the cheese for a very balanced bite, and it's soft, easy-to-eat.

The spaghetti pie is classic comfort food: creamy carbs, mildly spiced, and warm. I actually like the thin noodles better than the usual wide and flat noodles of lasagna; they seemed to make it all much creamier, softer, more luscious. It's the sort of thing that if you were eating with even not-so-close friends, someone would inevitably ask, "Hey, can I try a bite of that?"

With summer here, it's probably not exactly the best time of year to hunker down on a big bowl of warm pasta, but this menu item was so good, I may just take it on again this season…though I'll likely get it for delivery or to-go.

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